- 玉米蛇宠物饲养询证指南
- 说明
- 本指南建设原则
- 入手前需要什么
- 基本物种信息
- 解剖与生理
- 动物福利总论
- 蛇的行为学
- 爬行动物的认知能力
- 丰容
- 玉米蛇的自然生境
- 玉米蛇饲养的要素
- 空间需求
- 栖地布置总则
- 光照与加热
- 光照的测试
- 湿度
- 垫材
- 攀爬、遮挡与躲避
- 水
- 食物
- 共栖关系
- 蜕皮
- 特殊状态:冬眠和繁殖
- 互动与行为训练
- 运输
- 摄像头
- 伏地魔栖地
- 应急预案
- 蛇的医疗
- 信息来源
- 其他问题
- 词汇表
- 其他物种
https://www.facebook.com/groups/ReptileLighting/posts/3152812574853317
First bearded dragon and wanted to get some feedback. We’ve had him for two weeks now. His head and skin has darkened since we first got him. First picture is the first day we got him. Other pictures are now from two weeks later. He is substantially darker. He also has stress lines on his chin and belly almost consistently unless my son is holding him. Terrarium: 2x2x4 Reptizoo Substrate: Australian Sand Lights: Arcadia Pro T5 UVB 24”, 2-100 watt ZooMed Basking Spot Lamps (12 hours on/off) Diet: 5 crickets per day and greens salad (3x week calcium, 1x week vitamins without D3)
Frances Baines Admin "Stress marks" have nothing to do with stress. I have no idea where that myth arose and it really annoys me, because of all the needless worry it causes beardie owners. ALL beardies except for a few pale morphs and albinos have black melanin pigment in their skin, and the ability to darken and lighten their skin depending on whether they need to absorb heat or not. So when their core body temperature is low, (classically, when they first wake up and their body is at room temperature) their skin goes dark - because dark colours absorb warmth from sunlight and basking lamps, light colours reflect it away. It happens that beardie throat chest and belly scales have their melanin only in thin lines around the edge of each scale. So when they are cool, the scales under the throat, chest and belly get dark lines around the edges of each scale - giving those pretty wiggly lines that for some reason people call "stress marks". It just means he's not "up to temperature" and needs to bask. I suppose if a beardie is taken out of his vivarium and spends any length of time at human room temperature and gets cool, the marks appear and maybe people think it's because he's "getting stressed"? I don't know. But if your little one is always dark and the marks are "always" present, I think increasing the surface temperature across your basking zone - making sure you use a wide flood bulb not a "spotlight" so the light and heat covers a wide area at least as big as his entire body - would enable him to bask right up to his desired "core temperature".... This picture is of one of my beardies from years ago, Lilac, before and after basking. The "stress marks" disappear like magic when she's had enough basking time. "Black bearding", by the way, is totally different. They can turn their beards and chins completely black using melanin pigment when very angry, excited, aroused (especially breeding males) or in pain or acute distress. One of my females, Sheila, used to black-beard when she didn't want my male, Pog, to try to mate her, and once when poor girl, she got stuck under a part-opened door.
乌拉圭vs袋鼠
大概整理一下自己实践过的泰加蜕皮的护理思路:
- 环境内空气湿度是否常年大于70%,鉴于日间晒区会被烤干,需时常监控冷区指标和夜间指标。
- 垫材内部是否常年湿润,表层可能被烤干,但底层的湿润垫材可以与泰加爱挖掘打洞的特性相结合、提供仿野创造microclimate的效果,给夜间打洞/半埋式休息的泰加提供保水的机会,原理也类似于养蛇可能会用到的wet box。
- 昼夜温差是否足够,泰加日间温度已经很高,夜间适当降温可以有效防止夜间过度蒸发、体内缺水,对此比较敏感(以至于很多资料会提)的一般是树栖蜥蜴、比如一部分变色龙和一部分鬣蜥,斐济鬣蜥人工饲养条件下的夜间降温也是出于此目的(马沙拉夜间至少要降到20/22)。
- 日常食物营养是否均衡,皮肤代谢尤其需要充足的维生素,很多爬行动物在蜕皮时都会分泌辅助液体,蛇有,泰加也不例外,保持营养均衡和充足的维生素、对蜕皮辅助液的合成和分泌也有帮助。
- 除撒粉外,日常肉和蔬果都要提供;
- 昆虫也是很好的“骗吃蔬菜”媒介、可以通过gutloading来间接补充泰加的维生素摄入(提前几小时甚至提前一晚给昆虫投喂丰富的蔬果或营养丰富的人工凝胶饲料);
- 我最常给蜕皮期泰加补充的是维生素B族,之间曾用过B族维生素片和兽用维B补剂,现在更常用的是啤酒酵母粉,这甚至可以算得上是古法养蜥,啤酒酵母富含维B、还可以稳定肠道菌群促进肠道健(缺点是会造成一定程度的软便,类似于煮南瓜造成软便的效果),
- 另外生鸡蛋会破坏维B吸收、蜕皮期我会尽量喂熟鸡蛋;
- 关注排泄和排酸,在温湿度垫材营养都适当的条件下,可以试试对着泰加背部喷淋来促进排酸,很多教程会推荐泡澡,但我个人实践后目前觉得喷淋更好用(饮食适当、肠道蠕动正常的情况下,不需泡澡刺激泄殖腔):
- 已观察到泰加主动进饲养环境内大水盆的“泡澡”过程往往不超五秒十秒,效果甚微;被动被人放进水里的话又有压力,哪怕是很浅的水,也会一直想要逃脱......除非在室外自然水域自主游泳,否则泰加还是很不喜欢被人为地投入水里的;斯巴达和多巴胺对水的反应都和上述一致,外网也有苗子亚成在浴缸应激淹死的例子,
- 而喷淋较为温和且耗时短、不消耗泰加的耐心,多巴胺甚至会在喷淋过程中主动趴下等待、十分配合,促进排酸的效果也是很明显。
- 最后,蜕皮对日常护理的需求大于临时抱佛脚,如果日常没有适合的环境温湿度、适合的垫材和足够的营养,那临时泡澡对于蜕皮来说杯水车薪
冬青动物志 - 兰道二
龟可以无症状携带多种对有鳞目致命的病原体(如阿米巴原虫),对龟和有鳞目混养的情况,新来的龟要严格隔离观察并体检,尤其是对有共用水源的情况。即使这样、仍然不建议将龟和有鳞目混养。
[ 冬青动物志_BV1oR4y147p8.csv ] 冬青动物志 :[2021-12-04 20:02] 置顶常用陆龟食谱简版:龟/蜥蜴/啮齿接受度很高,可变着花样喂的:绣线菊、矢车菊、玉簪花、洋甘菊、万寿菊、锦葵、三色堇、勿忘我、金雀花、黄花菜花、雏菊、小白菊能当85%主食吃的:旱金莲、新鲜/干三叶草、燕麦草、黑麦草、大麦草、车前草、欧车前、苜蓿干草、草莓叶、黑莓叶、桑叶、马齿苋、鹅肠草占比15%的:南瓜、红绿甜椒、红/白萝卜、青豆、扁豆、豌豆、熟土豆、熟米饭、雪豆、红薯能吃的水果,具体比例依物种而定:苹果、杏、鳄梨、香蕉、浆果、哈密瓜、无花果、葡萄、芒果、橙子、木瓜、桃子、梨、李子、西红柿(不适合幼龟)、西瓜(极少喂)能吃,但营养含量低不宜做主食:玉米、黄瓜、白萝卜、豆芽、西葫芦、景天属多肉、去刺仙人掌不能多吃,仅能作零食的:卷心菜、甜菜、羽衣甘蓝、蒲公英和花朵、菊苣、葡萄叶、芥菜、欧芹、菠菜、油麦菜以上食物的功效通用于素食蜥蜴、素食哺乳类。具体喂食比重请结合物种特性参考
睫角守宫 https://www.bilibili.com/opus/950799849788276741?spm_id_from=333.1365.0.0